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General Homesteading thread

Well homesteading you need to sort of do it all if you don't want to spend all your time working for money, and sanitation of water and home is a critical subject.

Ozone does this with out need for chlorine based bleaches and is renewable with just electricity.
I just use a 5 stage filter while running rain water. As off grind you can get you still need to be somewhat connected. I can’t personally run solar here either it be too expensive or they would have to clear too many trees. Electricity is probably the only utility I have connected. Thankfully under ground, no poles.
 
I just use a 5 stage filter while running rain water. As off grind you can get you still need to be somewhat connected. I can’t personally run solar here either it be too expensive or they would have to clear too many trees. Electricity is probably the only utility I have connected. Thankfully under ground, no poles.
Filtration only covers up so much, but if you store large amounts to keep it fresh long term you need some kind of treatment, or one hell of a thoroughly cleaned tank with filtered vent line

All the water going in will be filtered and UV sterilized, Ozone will keep it that way and oxidize out any metals further cleaning the water.
 
I'm able to run a dehumidifer in my basement all summer just using solar but the silica packets would good for drying the air for the ozone generator use. They probably wouldn't get hot enough to dry out by just placing them in the sun on something black though. Hmm I do have a small toaster oven that will run off solar too though. Hmm…lol
I use a toaster oven to recharge my 3A molecular sieves and silica gell all the time.
 
Filtration only covers up so much, but if you store large amounts to keep it fresh long term you need some kind of treatment, or one hell of a thoroughly cleaned tank with filtered vent line

All the water going in will be filtered and UV sterilized, Ozone will keep it that way and oxidize out any metals further cleaning the water.
If you want a clean tank tarp it or get a color that isn’t clear or sun permitting. I’ve ran IBC totes for 2 years on just a black cover for each. It filters before it gets in the house. I have 3 of them for now and trying to UV and tank heat in the winter would be twice the pain in the ass.
The Amish around here use raised towers with nothing but a tank and cover for rain and homemade sand and carbon filters. They also stock 50 times the amount I do.
 
If you want a clean tank tarp it or get a color that isn’t clear or sun permitting. I’ve ran IBC totes for 2 years on just a black cover for each. It filters before it gets in the house. I have 3 of them for now and trying to UV and tank heat in the winter would be twice the pain in the ass.
The Amish around here use raised towers with nothing but a tank and cover for rain and homemade sand and carbon filters. They also stock 50 times the amount I do.
I'm just pickier now days, and I know what grows in those tanks on the microscopic level! all so I am not using rain. I did water treatment professionally, so know of a good deal of ways to do it, wish I was back where such simple systems would be viable, but I am planning on more serious disasters for when the main system gets kicked on.

Normal usage be just a few stages of carbon + UV in batch mode, I want apx 2k gallons stored.

Basically the philosophy is raw sewage can go in and clean clear drinkable water can comes out, if better goes in just saves on filters!

Here chemical contamination has to be assumed, Ozone will rip that stuff to oblivion and back
 
I'm just pickier now days, and I know what grows in those tanks on the microscopic level! all so I am not using rain. I did water treatment professionally, so know of a good deal of ways to do it, wish I was back where such simple systems would be viable, but I am planning on more serious disasters for when the main system gets kicked on.

Normal usage be just a few stages of carbon + UV in batch mode, I want apx 2k gallons stored.
I’m aiming for 10k or more. Again a good home filter capable of catching viruses though different stages makes the difference. I’m also not a fan of completely sterile. Just like sterile plants, animals and horrifically bees. It makes them and us weak in immunity. There’s a reason why the local Mexicans can drink the water and you can’t without being in the bathroom for days.
 
I’m aiming for 10k or more. Again a good home filter capable of catching viruses though different stages makes the difference. I’m also not a fan of completely sterile. Just like sterile plants, animals and horrifically bees. It makes them and us weak in immunity. There’s a reason why the local Mexicans can drink the water and you can’t without being in the bathroom for days.
Well as much as I like it right from the stream the water sources available need to be oxidized to ensure no nasty chemicals, and carbon can be recooked, there is a time factor in it.

So for my needs I settled on the system I am building, Chemical contamination is a gift from those whom where incredibly myopic in the past and the greedy of the now.
 
Well as much as I like it right from the stream the water sources available need to be oxidized to ensure no nasty chemicals, and carbon can be recooked, there is a time factor in it.

So for my needs I settled on the system I am building, Chemical contamination is a gift from those whom where incredibly myopic in the past and the greedy of the now.
Well that’s a different situation. Local water contamination sucks when it’s chemical from some asshat . We are slowly fucking our selves going down that road. Who ever thought cloud seeding was a good idea is an idiot.
 
Well that’s a different situation. Local water contamination sucks when it’s chemical from some asshat . We are slowly fucking our selves going down that road. Who ever thought cloud seeding was a good idea is an idiot.
Nothing to do with that, those are silver halide salts usually, when rarely done. Nope these are good old band aids due to shitty crop practices, it is easier to dump tons of fertilizer and pesticide on it! and if you bury garbage it vanishes by magic!

Now I don't mine finding lead, that's a bonus, but the truck loads of just flat out plastic garbage I've had to remove is starting to piss me off as I just keep finding it!
 
I did water treatment professionally, so know of a good deal of ways to do it
What would you suggest for a well that delivers otherwise good (not particularly hard, pH 6.8 - just a titch on the low side of "ideal", or so I've been led to understand) water, but with 10-13 ppm dissolved iron (as in "filters have absolutely no chance - don't waste the time and money required to try"), delivered at roughly 30 PSI with a flow somewhere between 9 and 11 gallons per minute?

Every analysis I've seen the results of, from the home depot "Test your drinking water" kit I ran on it when I first got here, to full-blown "send it to a lab" reports, gives the same verdict: "perfectly safe for drinking, but expect odor and bad flavor from high iron content", but sweet jitterbugging jesus does the iron make a mess of the fixtures, laundry that starts out white gradually turns orangey-brown, and don't even get me started on the "sludge" that grows in the stock tanks. Never mind the "gravel" that forms in the plumbing - hunks of what might just as well be small nuggets of unpolished hematite that require periodic "disconnect the feed lines and bang on things until the rocks stop falling out before reconnecting" sessions. Oh, and let's not forget the sludge in the bottom of the hot water heater... Hooo, boy... That was fun last year... Had to change out a burnt lower element, and the sludge had settled (for how many years, I can't even begin to guess) so thick and deep that the drain-cock was totally useless until I yanked the upper element, then back-blasted through the draincock with 80 pounds of compressed air - The sludge that came out after that was simply NOT to be believed - imagine a gush of not-quite-set, gritty, black jello that just keeps coming and coming and coming. (it took more than half an hour for it to stop flowing)

At some point in the history of the place (I'm going to guess 70s or 80s, but that's exactly what it is: A guess) somebody "wired in" a venturi-type air-injector (Which is currently so coated in corrosion I doubt it's doing anything at all anymore) before the pressure tank (approx 75 gallons, by eye) and after the pressure tank, a pair of cylinders that look exactly like water softeners, except no salt tanks. Whoever did the work was at least smart about it - They're "wired parallel", on a bypass loop so they can be taken offline without more disruption in flow than it takes to turn the valves. I'd eyeball-guess them to be 1 cubic foot units, and I have good reason to believe they're stuffed with greensand/manganese dioxide as combination oxider and "sand filter" media. Trouble is, they've been sitting idle for I-can't-even-guess how long, in bypass mode, so I expect they're fouled with iron sludge - In fact, I suspect that they're bypassed because they didn't get properly backwashed - whether due to nobody knowing that they needed it, or how to do it - and as a result, are effectively a solid "iron-sludge" plug.

Any suggestions? I'm considering yanking the pressure vessels, dumping them, and reloading with fresh greensand - trouble is, how long is that (relatively high cost, based on the searching I've done - just the shipping is above a hundred bucks, never mind the price of the material itself) "band-aid" gonna last before we're back to the point we're currently at?
 
Iron is a night mare, most here use ozone injection then a settling tank with some times floculant, Green sand lasts 7 to 10 years so long as you maintain it well, they do need regenerating with pot perm (Potassium permanganate).

Generally the trick is oxidize the iron out, then congeal and filter, green sand is more for H2S and other smells. Metsorb for arsenic and other heavy metals.
 
Well scored the wire I needed to make the drop cord for my welders foot pedal! CT520D multiprocess, a great affordable Tig, Stick, Plasma cutter.

So far it is what I have used to weld the stuff for the solar tracker and weld up the body repairs on my car. for those that want an entry level tig/plasma cutter unit I deff would recommend, cheap for what you get, works on 120 and 240v which makes it all the more handy.
 
Iron is a night mare, most here use ozone injection then a settling tank with some times floculant, Green sand lasts 7 to 10 years so long as you maintain it well, they do need regenerating with pot perm (Potassium permanganate).

Yep, that matches with the research I've done on the topic. Main difficulty I see is that getting hold of more than half a pint or so of liquid KMnO4 (and the purity that "Joe Average" can get is a joke... I'm not even sure that the 8% solution that was the only thing I could find when I went looking a couple years back is adequate) is damned hard here in the states anymore, and unless you're a lab or similar, you can just plain forget the crystalized version completely - It's on the list of "things used to make meth", and even asking about it is likely to put you on a terrorist watch list. (Though, there is the concept of "If you're not on a watch list, you're slacking off"...)

Generally the trick is oxidize the iron out,

No question. Filters can't touch the dissolved form even a little bit. Trying is roughly the same as stirring a cup of sugar into a pan of hot water, then trying to filter the sugar out - It just ain't gonna happen, no matter how good your filter is. Gotta convert it to rust for filtration to have even a ghost of a chance.

then congeal and filter,

What a nightmare, just in space alone...

green sand is more for H2S and other smells.

That goes against almost everything I've found - While it IS, absolutely, useful for H2S, everything I'm finding is using diffrerent wordings, but they all come down to the same thing: "If you've got a lot (5PPM or more is apparently considered "a lot", so at 12+, I guess we have "a lot - and then some!") of dissolved iron, greensand and/or manganese dioxide is *THE* magic bullet." Which makes perfect sense to my (admittedly limited) chemistry knowledge - "naked" iron "wants to be" rust, and MnO2 catalyzes the oxidation reaction, turning the dissolved iron into rust flakes that a filter at least has a chance of grabbing.

Metsorb for arsenic and other heavy metals.

Thankfully, we get "none measurable" results on lead, mercury, asenic, and nitrates/nitrites, so that's not an issue for us.


'Bout... Oh, must've been 4 years ago, now, I ran across a unit going under the name "The Iron Eater" - Venturi air injection (optional tank-oxygen or hydrogen peroxide injection adapter available at additional cost. Editorial comment: O2 and/or H2O2 injection ought to do ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL things for houses plumbed with copper pipe... <eyeroll>) plus a three-vessel series, with the first vessel supposedly loaded with "chunk" manganese dioxide, the second filled with greensand (which, if I haven't misunderstood, is just "smaller chunk" MnO2) and the final vessel loaded with plain old pool filter sand. Theory of operation is the venturi puts plenty of atmospheric O2 (or straight-up O2, or H2O2) into the water, the first vessel, loaded with the "chunk" MnO2 catalyzes the Fe+O2 --> FeOx reaction so that things happen close enough to instantly (no need for reaction and/or settling tank and the associated extra hardware) and depending on flow at any given moment, may "settle" some of the rust out before passing it on to the greensand vessel, where the reaction continues, and the "sand" part starts filtering the rust, then the pool sand does a final filtration. They claimed that dissolved iron would be less than 1PPT when it comes out the other side of the system. Great, by the sound of it - Until you read the price tag - A unit sized to supply our outfit (assuming we don't just keep on running untreated water to the barn/stock tanks) is north of ten grand, and based on their dimensions, would almost totally fill the barely-extant "basement" where the pressure tank, the current(ly not operational ) "(not) treatment" system, hot water heater, and furnace currently live.

When I was in Florida, the well brought up similar water to here, but worse - Don't recall the exact numbers 30 years later, but I'm wanting to say it was carrying 20+ PPM iron and mid-teens PPM sulfur. (Fortunately, as iron sulphate, rather than hydrogen sulphide) Stunk so bad it could gag a maggot. I couldn't stand to get it near enough to my face to try to drink it "in the raw"! The stuff was almost "crunchy" straight out of the well.

There, the well-pump went straight to a dozen or so spray-heads that didn't look much different from (might actually have been, in a previous life) fire sprinkler heads hung about 6 feet above a bug-screen enclosed 1500 gallon tank. (That they had to have a "sewer sucker" type truck come through and pump out every few months due to muck buildup from the rust sedimenting out) After being sprayed into the tank, the water sat "for a while", depending on current usage, and a pool pump sucked it from the tank, then pushed it through a sand filter exactly like a pool filter (wouldn't be a bit surprised to find it was originally designed to BE a pool filter) then through a gizmo I never saw the inside of, but the owner said was about 400 linear feet of made-to-order half-inch glass tubing running back and forth between a pair of 2500 watt banks of UV lights - he called it the UV-blaster - then through a standard "paper cartridge" filter, and finally, to the rest of the place. House had a fancy salt-regenerating softener, while the barn "only" had a charcoal filter cannister. I liked the barn water better - The house water tasted "dead" somehow. (Which I've since found out is a common thing with "soft water" systems - back in Florida was my first exposure to "softened water" after growing up drinking northern Michigan well water - which is pretty universally "fine stuff", even when the only "treatment" is the well-pump bringing it up)

I wouldn't want to pay the power bill for the UV-Blaster... 5KW? Running 24/7? OUCH! My wallet is screaming in agony at the mere thought! But then, at the time, the owner had money to burn - He was ranked as one of the top 20 surgical oncologists in the world. He was a double-specialist - as he put it, "I majored in lady-cancers, with a minor in boob jobs", which I eventually figured out meant carving out breast, ovarian, uterine and cervical cancers, and the reconstructive surgery to fix the damage he did while doing the carving. He was "famous" for being a "one man cancer treatment clinic" - Assuming you were female, he could diagnose it, carve it out of you, and do the reconstructive surgery to make you pretty again. Always thought it was a bit too ironic that his wife (who was the reason there were horses there to be taken care of) died of ovarian cancer that went wildfire on her.

But I ramble... Lemme hit send before this turns into "Gone With the Wind, Part 2"
 
Yep, that matches with the research I've done on the topic. Main difficulty I see is that getting hold of more than half a pint or so of liquid KMnO4 (and the purity that "Joe Average" can get is a joke... I'm not even sure that the 8% solution that was the only thing I could find when I went looking a couple years back is adequate) is damned hard here in the states anymore, and unless you're a lab or similar, you can just plain forget the crystalized version completely - It's on the list of "things used to make meth", and even asking about it is likely to put you on a terrorist watch list. (Though, there is the concept of "If you're not on a watch list, you're slacking off"...)



No question. Filters can't touch the dissolved form even a little bit. Trying is roughly the same as stirring a cup of sugar into a pan of hot water, then trying to filter the sugar out - It just ain't gonna happen, no matter how good your filter is. Gotta convert it to rust for filtration to have even a ghost of a chance.



What a nightmare, just in space alone...



That goes against almost everything I've found - While it IS, absolutely, useful for H2S, everything I'm finding is using diffrerent wordings, but they all come down to the same thing: "If you've got a lot (5PPM or more is apparently considered "a lot", so at 12+, I guess we have "a lot - and then some!") of dissolved iron, greensand and/or manganese dioxide is *THE* magic bullet." Which makes perfect sense to my (admittedly limited) chemistry knowledge - "naked" iron "wants to be" rust, and MnO2 catalyzes the oxidation reaction, turning the dissolved iron into rust flakes that a filter at least has a chance of grabbing.



Thankfully, we get "none measurable" results on lead, mercury, asenic, and nitrates/nitrites, so that's not an issue for us.


'Bout... Oh, must've been 4 years ago, now, I ran across a unit going under the name "The Iron Eater" - Venturi air injection (optional tank-oxygen or hydrogen peroxide injection adapter available at additional cost. Editorial comment: O2 and/or H2O2 injection ought to do ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL things for houses plumbed with copper pipe... <eyeroll>) plus a three-vessel series, with the first vessel supposedly loaded with "chunk" manganese dioxide, the second filled with greensand (which, if I haven't misunderstood, is just "smaller chunk" MnO2) and the final vessel loaded with plain old pool filter sand. Theory of operation is the venturi puts plenty of atmospheric O2 (or straight-up O2, or H2O2) into the water, the first vessel, loaded with the "chunk" MnO2 catalyzes the Fe+O2 --> FeOx reaction so that things happen close enough to instantly (no need for reaction and/or settling tank and the associated extra hardware) and depending on flow at any given moment, may "settle" some of the rust out before passing it on to the greensand vessel, where the reaction continues, and the "sand" part starts filtering the rust, then the pool sand does a final filtration. They claimed that dissolved iron would be less than 1PPT when it comes out the other side of the system. Great, by the sound of it - Until you read the price tag - A unit sized to supply our outfit (assuming we don't just keep on running untreated water to the barn/stock tanks) is north of ten grand, and based on their dimensions, would almost totally fill the barely-extant "basement" where the pressure tank, the current(ly not operational ) "(not) treatment" system, hot water heater, and furnace currently live.

When I was in Florida, the well brought up similar water to here, but worse - Don't recall the exact numbers 30 years later, but I'm wanting to say it was carrying 20+ PPM iron and mid-teens PPM sulfur. (Fortunately, as iron sulphate, rather than hydrogen sulphide) Stunk so bad it could gag a maggot. I couldn't stand to get it near enough to my face to try to drink it "in the raw"! The stuff was almost "crunchy" straight out of the well.

There, the well-pump went straight to a dozen or so spray-heads that didn't look much different from (might actually have been, in a previous life) fire sprinkler heads hung about 6 feet above a bug-screen enclosed 1500 gallon tank. (That they had to have a "sewer sucker" type truck come through and pump out every few months due to muck buildup from the rust sedimenting out) After being sprayed into the tank, the water sat "for a while", depending on current usage, and a pool pump sucked it from the tank, then pushed it through a sand filter exactly like a pool filter (wouldn't be a bit surprised to find it was originally designed to BE a pool filter) then through a gizmo I never saw the inside of, but the owner said was about 400 linear feet of made-to-order half-inch glass tubing running back and forth between a pair of 2500 watt banks of UV lights - he called it the UV-blaster - then through a standard "paper cartridge" filter, and finally, to the rest of the place. House had a fancy salt-regenerating softener, while the barn "only" had a charcoal filter cannister. I liked the barn water better - The house water tasted "dead" somehow. (Which I've since found out is a common thing with "soft water" systems - back in Florida was my first exposure to "softened water" after growing up drinking northern Michigan well water - which is pretty universally "fine stuff", even when the only "treatment" is the well-pump bringing it up)

I wouldn't want to pay the power bill for the UV-Blaster... 5KW? Running 24/7? OUCH! My wallet is screaming in agony at the mere thought! But then, at the time, the owner had money to burn - He was ranked as one of the top 20 surgical oncologists in the world. He was a double-specialist - as he put it, "I majored in lady-cancers, with a minor in boob jobs", which I eventually figured out meant carving out breast, ovarian, uterine and cervical cancers, and the reconstructive surgery to fix the damage he did while doing the carving. He was "famous" for being a "one man cancer treatment clinic" - Assuming you were female, he could diagnose it, carve it out of you, and do the reconstructive surgery to make you pretty again. Always thought it was a bit too ironic that his wife (who was the reason there were horses there to be taken care of) died of ovarian cancer that went wildfire on her.

But I ramble... Lemme hit send before this turns into "Gone With the Wind, Part 2"
Pot perm is sold as a crystal specifically for green sand systems and it makes a concentrated liquor the head will meter into the unit during regen cycle. just prove you got green sand and off you go.

Ozone can be made via UV or coronal discharge, I prefer the corona type as no bulbs to deal with and work quite well, feed them dry clean air and watch the magic happen.

Large Revers osmosis system will remove a large chunk but they die fast when fed iron as well (Amazing what that pesky Fe+2 Ion can do!)

Oxidize and sand filter is the cheapest long run to operate as the sand can be regenerated with a back flush and some EDTA, sand lasts about 10++ years before it starts rounding out and needed to be replaced due to packing.

Real old school is large horizontal beds, one bacteria get a foot hold and start making gell mats that will trap every thing in the water, make a nice cascading water fall to get lots of o2 in it and off ya go.

it is like racing, speed costs, how fast you want to go!
 
it is like racing, speed costs, how fast you want to go!
Funny you should use that line - I just binged the "Mad Max" trilogy (that "Fury Road" abortion IS NOT MAD MAX - Don't even get me started!) about 4 days ago, and that sign on the garage where Max and his ol' lady went to get the tire fixed got stuck in my head :)
 
here's my coronal discharge ozone generator, just need to make the 555 oscillator, then the fet coil driver.

going to make them optically isolated with the coil driver on a daughter card, as that is the part that will fail eventually under use, the 555 part aut to last many many moons more than the driver.
 

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Does anyone have their own sawmill? I'm seriously thinking about getting the harbor freight one if I can't find a used one. I have a crap ton of Ash that needs to be dealt with.
 
Does anyone have their own sawmill? I'm seriously thinking about getting the harbor freight one if I can't find a used one. I have a crap ton of Ash that needs to be dealt with.
You could get an Alaskan mill, Ive used one a bit and it works well with a saw with enough power.and a good straight frame to hang on.
 
You could get an Alaskan mill, Ive used one a bit and it works well with a saw with enough power.and a good straight frame to hang on.
Oh yeah, that's right. I've watched many YouTube videos on milling in preparation for building a cabin and forgot about that...lol
 
Oh yeah, that's right. I've watched many YouTube videos on milling in preparation for building a cabin and forgot about that...lol
Set it up so the log has significant drop from the end you are starting at to the end you are finishing at and use a chainsaw that comes with a bar about twice the thickness of your logs and it works quite well. It leaves a rough finish and isn't great for anything thinner than 2"
 
I have a 160-acre farm, with 73 acres tillable and the rest in woods. Nothing has been harvested for at least 40+ years, and pretty much all the ash is dead-standing now. I also need to get a splitter.
 
I grow citrus in a greenhouse in the Midwest. I have a wood burning furnace that really does a good job.
How warm do you actually have to keep it? Got some citrus trees this year but I'm keeping them inside for this winter but might have the walapini up by next year.
 
I have a 160-acre farm, with 73 acres tillable and the rest in woods. Nothing has been harvested for at least 40+ years, and pretty much all the ash is dead-standing now. I also need to get a splitter.
Even dead standing wood is millable so long as it's not all cracked out. I did some dead oak that was standing for 3 years dead, got a lot of good lumber abd I'm messing around with resin pouring in the bad stuff, it's kinda cool looking. I've got over 100 acres of woods but most of it is pecan and ash, pecan is almost always hallow and un millable, plus the woods were logged out long before I got it so not a ton of the oaks are of a size to get me excited to log it, they took out all the walnut and huge oaks.

I also don't really want to clear any more of the woods, my neighbors on 3 sides now have done extensive clearing leaving my place as the go to hiding spot for all the deer. And yeah, I'm far to lazy to want to maintain any more cleared ground, I've been meaning to thin out about 30 acres of pecans to bring a corner of a field the previous owners let go back into at least pecan if not hay production for years.
 
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